Today is just a brief one as I’m off to Edinburgh for a couple of days, but I’ve adjusted and re-cut the bodice of my Rooibos muslin so I think I’m ready to roll on the full version, hurray!
Going back to the first muslin here is the photo showing the length issue in the bodice.
The pins indicate where the midriff line should fall.
To make the adjustment I measured the additional length needed (1.75in at the full bust + 1in at the centre front).
Then I cut a line from beneath the underarm bust dart to the full bust point then vertically down (avoiding the under-bust darts). I left a hinge at the side seam stitching line so the side seam length remained unchanged, then pivoted the bottom piece down 1.75in.
Then I drew a line from the full but point to the centre front (perpendicular to the CF) and slide that piece down 1in before filling the gaps with paper and truing up the line.
This seems to have added the right amount although I had to play with the dart position and length a fair bit in the muslin form because the angle had pivoted down. I think now though, the problem is solved.
Here is the first muslin:
It certainly feels like a better fit even if the process was somewhat of a guess




It looks better. It’s a slight difference but you can totally tell the fit is better. I’m working on my bodice again and decided to take a break and saw your blog post! Yay for inspiration.
Have fun up north!
That is looking really good now. Looking forward to seeing the final version.
Oh, the fit looks so great now! I can’t wait to see your final version – it’s going to look fantastic.
Your fitting posts are so inspirational, Alana. I tend to take the lazy way of doing FBAs and fitting tweaks, but these posts highlight the benefits of true muslin-making. Your finished products are always divine! I may have to break down and buy a bolt of muslin soon…
Thanks, Mary! Got to admit – I hate muslining but I think for somethings it’s just a necessary evil. I know the things I’ve spent the time fitting properly, like my Burda Jenny pencil skirt, have become tried and true patterns so I guess the pay off is there, but boy is it boring
The second version definitely looks better. You did a really good job on the adjustments. Nice work!
Great job on the muslins, I don´t know if I´ve told you this before, but your FBA posts are the ones I go to when I need a reminder of how it´s done for different bodice types. Great work!
Thanks, Solvi! Ps. if you want to see them on every type of bodice you can think of I can highly reccomend this Palmer & Pletsch DVD, it’s incredibly useful!
Yes, it definitely looks ready for the final fabric! Great job.