This is my second version of Colette Pattern’s Macaron dress although the first, which you can see here, was really a wearable muslin. For this version I finally got to use this lovely vintage cotton floral twill I found at a cool vintage fabric store just off Brick Lane, simply called The Shop.
Image via thevintageguidetolondon.com
Every Thursday they get new deliveries, and while it’s not as cheap as a charity shop find (they specialise in fabric not clothing) there is plenty to hunt through and it’s still quite reasonable.This was a 3 yard length although very narrow (35in) and it cost £6.50.
I wasn’t sure what t0 do with it but I think the vintage feel of Colette Patterns make a nice fit and I needed something nice but still warm and comfortable for Christmas Day. The red and green of this print don’t shout Christmas but sort of give it a subtle nod, like Joni Mitchell’s River*, not a Christmas song as such but it sure evokes the season.
I made a number of changes with this version:
- I kept the FBA in tact (detailed FBA posts here and here) but I shortened the darts under the bust by one inch.
- Lowered the neckline by 5/8in as I felt a little choked by the high neck.
- I had a problem of the bodice pieces not matching at the side seams of the last version so I adjusted the edges to make sure they were exactly the same length.
- I widened the midriff band to 3 1/2in.
- Made the skirt wider. I love the tulip shape of the original but I wanted something looser and longer for this to be a winter version.
- Lastly I lengthened the sleeves to elbow length and added a cuff inspired by Adey’s version of Vintage Simplicity 3074 on the Sew Weekly.
And in the end it’s the little things I love most about this dress, the cuffs, the pockets set into the pleats and the sweetheart bodice. I’m so glad I gave it another go and now I have something to wear for my very first English Christmas!
*Any excuse to include a little Joni.
I love the details of this dress too! Especially the cuffs. Cute! It really is such a pretty wintery dress! And I try to sneak in River if I perform anything around Christmas time. I love that tune!
Ooh i love the new sleeve, that dress looks really cute and really comfy, perfect for Christmas day dinner eating!
I want to skate away on your dress. Thanks for mentioning “River” on this gray morning. Also, I would give anything to have a thrift shop devoted to fabric, or even a tiny portion of it. There’s nothing like it here in North Carolina that I know of.
Again, gorgeous pairings!
How beautiful! My Macaron is one of my favourite makes and you’ve inspired me to have another go at it. Happy first Christmas in England, my dear! x
My Macarons are my favorite summer dress and I was wondering what to do about winter ones. I love yours so much that I will have to copy your neckline change and the sleeve/cuff treatment.
I really admire your drafting skills for plus-size adjustments. I have similar issues, though mostly of the pear variety, which generally discourage me from sewing for myself. Since ready-to-wear is not a real solution, I’m resolved to give it a go, as soon as real life gets out of my way.
I love it. I’m about to start my first Collette pattern soon and am slightly nervous. Was it simple to follow?
Really simple. Colette & Sewaholic both have the best instructions. Good luck!
Oh yay, I’ve been awaiting this post since your sneak peak the other day! Love the fabric, looks like a delightful treasure trove of a shop. The one in Auckland has closed now apparently, Selvedge, such a shame. And of course there is nothing like that in CHC! Cool to see also the practical application of your pins, your much more disciplined than I, I just randomly pin thinking I’ll one day use the ideas but nearly never do, must remedy this!
Ok, thats it- I’m printing this out and following your directions for one for me- that is too cute!!
This came out beautifully, my favorite version of this dress. I want to put that little cuff on all of my sleeves.
It’s a gorgeous dress, I love the fabric choices. You look fantastic.
I love what you did with the sleeves
Another fabulous garment! I have been eyeing the macaron for awhile and this post just might be the push I need to get it! Your version is so lovely!
I love the extended sleeve with the cuff! Such a great detail. I like the subtlety, too.
I just placed my purchase for this pattern! I saw your first try and had to give it ago myself and then you post your second attempt and it looks just as lovely!
I never considered a FBA because I always thought I had more of a broad back and avg bust, but always ended up with dress way way to big for me in the shoulders and bust when I made them to my bust size.
But thanks to your tutorial I see its exactly what i need to be doing. When ever i read about FBA’s none of them mentioned the most important step, measuring your upper bust and matching that to the pattern. I seemed to totally miss that step and couldn’t work out where to find this magical listing of for upper bust on the pattern. Now i get it!
I noticed you needed to grade the back up, did you just fill in the missing space or do a back adjustment? http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00103.asp
I’m learning so much about fit at the moment I can’t believe how much there is to do before you even begin sewing!
PS: I found your blog about two days ago and haven’t stopped reading since(to catch up), you have really inspired me to make more effort with my sewing!
So glad you’re enjoying it
Have you heard James Blake’s cover of ‘A Case Of You’? It’s really gorgeous. Great dress! I do love that pattern and really should buy it.
Just googled it and heard the live version – stunning!
I really like what you did! love the sleeves, the colors and it fits you really well. I don’t have this pattern but have been eyeing it for a while, maybe you’ll be guilty of this buy! : ) cheers,
Love it! Especially your cuffs – too cute!
And wow, what a shop…oh to have something similar to that near me…..sigh!
I love that Joni Mitchell song. It always makes me think of the holidays, and I think that song is way underrated.