Burdastyle Lies?!

18 Aug

Disclaimer: There is good news and bad news then more good news in this post.

Good news #1:

Jenny muslin before fitting

I got the muslin for the cup-cake goddess’ pencil-skirt-sew-along slung together tonight. I haven’t made a start on fitting it properly but it was a lot closer to being right than I thought it would be considering…

Bad News: The pattern grading I worked on yesterday was a total waste of time because that muslin above?…. it’s a straight size 44 off the pattern. The pattern states that the finished hip measurement at size 44 is 43 3/4 inches. My hip measurement is 47 3/4 inches so I was busily grading up six inches on the pattern when I noticed there was no finished waist measurement marked on the pieces. I measured out pieces and soon realised that the finished hip measurement of that size 44 was actually 49 1/2 inches. I’d heard rumors of burda weirdness in patterns but to be almost 6 inches out? Is there something I’m missing here? Surely my printer is not that out of alignment?

Finished measurements as printed by burda style

But back to Good News #2: I don’t have to grade the rest of the pieces so I caught up to the muslin stage after all.

The fit isn’t too bad, it’s a little big if anything but I’m an absolute novice with this fitting stuff so I’m going to leave it for tomorrow but if you have any advice please feel free to leave me a comment :).

I'm a little concerned about the poufy uterus I seem to have going on here. Also should it taper in a teeny bit more on the bottom?

I made a terrible mess of trying to pin the skirt together behind my back so will try this again tomorrow... before I pour a glass of wine.

Side note: Here’s a really good reason why I crop my face out of these photos (besides the fact I reserve the right to moan about my job in anonymity), this muslin is quite sheer and I hope I haven’t offended anyone with the sight of my stripey underwear!


10 Responses to “Burdastyle Lies?!”

  1. lakaribane August 19, 2010 at 12:02 am #

    I just checked in my copy of Fit for Real People and on several pages (82, 100, 102, 179, 189) discuss drooping or puckers at the front darts as being caused by a full tummy. Might that be your problem?

    They recommend turning them into gathers, tucks or easing the extra fabric in the waistband.

    Maybe you could check out a fit book or use the Look Inside option on Amazon to see the pages in question?

  2. Angela August 19, 2010 at 1:40 am #

    Very nice on the not having to grade. I’m a little bit of a newbie when it comes to fitting, too. At least for the most part, your muslin looks good. Good luck on the fitting!

  3. lin3arossa August 19, 2010 at 1:53 am #

    Burdastyle patterns ARE weird, I always flat measure them. As for the puckers, I agree with lakaribane, it looks like shaving a tiny tiny bit off the front piece or easing the extra fabric in the waistband would do. I wouldn’t taper the bottom more…

  4. lsaspacey August 19, 2010 at 2:25 am #

    Um, I didn’t notice the underwear (since I wasn’t looking for it!)until you mentioned it.

    With the downloaded pattern did it’s test square come out the right size? If not, the pattern might not be the right scale.

    As for the puckers, play around with the front darts too.

  5. rachel August 19, 2010 at 9:09 am #

    I agree with the rest re: the tummy area. I’d try and ease more into the waistband.

    I also wouldn’t taper more at the bottom simply because it will be more comfy that way. It gives you a really nice line as it is — especially with the fitted, high waist.

    What fabric are you making it in? I’m very excited to see it made up!

  6. ~Sherry~ August 19, 2010 at 10:18 am #

    I’m not familiar with the style – but is the seam supposed to sit on the waistline? If so, it is sitting slightly lower than your natural waist, so you might need to take it in a bit all around. I usually swing it around to the front to pin up the zip – much easier, although I still manage to stab a few fingers!
    You made me laugh saying poofy uterus! If it still does this once you raise the waistline, try taking a sliver (?3-6mm) off the skirt front upper edge, I think it is caused by excess fabric vertically between the waistline and hipline. I often need to do this, and at the back as well!
    Hope this helps – it’s actually looking pretty good!

  7. Fiona August 19, 2010 at 1:16 pm #

    Lucky you… you have a flat belly. You could perhaps smooth the excess fabric up towards the waist, then lower the waistband. And then see if you need to increase the size of the front darts… pinch the fabric and see what looks best.

  8. Carolyn August 20, 2010 at 4:47 pm #

    Hey, thanks for your comment!
    Your muslin is coming along fine.. I agree with the fitting comments made above by lakariban, about increasing the width of the darts at the waistline.
    But muslins nearly always look horrendous because of the thin/cheap fabric, your final skirt will look gorgeous, I’m sure! What fabric have you chosen?


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