Marimekko Inspired Tunic: Burda 03/2010 #104

2 Dec

This dress could also carry several alternative subtitles:

  • The simplest dress pattern in the world
  • How to break sewing rules
  • Continued high-necked adventures for full busted ladies

As a quick recap, here is the original inspiration for this dress and the pattern I used – Burda Magazine 03/2010 #104.

The pattern is about as simple as they come, just a single dart at each side of the bust and a slashed opening at the centre back neck meaning no zipper to install (hurrah!). Both front and back are cut on the fold and the neck edge is finished with a facing. The pattern was originally designed to be made from lace and as such it has 1cm (3/8″) seam allowances on the side seams but not at the hem of the sleeves or skirt as this would be where the scalloped lace edge would end.

The downloaded pattern only reached a size 44 (US 12) and my measurements fall a way above that so the first step was to  grade that puppy up using this Threads Tutorial. I went up one size in the shoulders (selected using my high bust measurement) and three sizes at the waist and hips. For my first time properly grading a pattern, it went a lot smoother than expected.

Then I added a 2 inch Full Bust Adjustment using the basic slash and spread method (I’ll do a quick post on this in a mo). You can see above how the FBA-altered piece compares to the original (in purple).

When it came to cutting out, I was struggling to make everything fit nicely as I’d purchased the fabric before choosing a pattern which is most unlike me. So, being that I was already breaking the rules by using quilting cotton as fabric, I just cut the pattern pieces running 90 degrees to the selvage instead of parallel to it. With a nice square weave, it doesn’t seem to have caused any damage… in fact the world did not actually implode with either of these dalliances 😉

Being so simple and with the least challenging fabric to sew ever the dress went together in a jiffy. I gave the instructions only a brief glance as Burda’s reputation for bungled instructions had preceded it, but they didn’t seem awful just not very detailed.

Here it is un-hemmed. Now some might recall my habit for choosing patterns meant for tall willowy slight-busted girls, despite my own tall cleverly curvy physique. Here’s where these two go head to head.

The full bust adjustment left enough room at the front but then falls straight down, creating a fairly decent impression of a tent.

When asked if I should add some vertical darts to shape the waist Little Sis answered affirmatively from her bed on the couch.

So despite not wanting to interrupt the delightful poppies, I added two darts to the front and back.

Ta-da… a waist!

I’m so happy with the end result. It’s a little retro, a little modern, a lot of fun.

Edited to Add: Look at who else is showing a little Marimekko love…

Apartment Therapy: The Colorful World of Marimekko

Youtube.com/user/marimekkovideo

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12 Responses to “Marimekko Inspired Tunic: Burda 03/2010 #104”

  1. Sølvi December 2, 2010 at 8:36 pm #

    Oooo! It came out so nicely! This kind of print is perfect for this type of dress, it looks just lovely.

    And I love that you are so thorough with your FBA´s. It makes all the difference in the world, don´t you think? And I must say. it is very tempting that this dress doesn´t have a zip. Nice touch!

  2. laurwyn December 2, 2010 at 10:22 pm #

    As I thought yesterday, I love that fabric with that pattern. Sometimes, it feels great to do something nice and simple. I also think that you took a good decision with the added darts. It changes so much!

  3. Molly December 3, 2010 at 2:47 am #

    So awesome, I love marimekko style! And I think this dress looks great on you

  4. Sara December 3, 2010 at 4:03 am #

    i love marimekko! that print is so gorgeous.

  5. lsaspacey December 3, 2010 at 9:19 am #

    Looks great!!

  6. Angela December 4, 2010 at 10:50 am #

    WOW!! What a stunner! The colors and the style look great on you! I love the addition of the darts… it’s so perfect!

  7. rachel December 5, 2010 at 7:21 pm #

    I LOVE this dress – you look awesome in it. It would also look great with cute sandals or wedges for summer. I want one immediately.

  8. Tasia December 12, 2010 at 12:30 pm #

    Fan-tastic!! Love the bold print, you’re totally rocking it!

  9. charlotteauzou December 14, 2010 at 9:58 am #

    The fabric is awesome ! I have Marrimekko wellies with the pink flower. This pattern is so beautiful. I hope you enjoy wearing your tunic !

  10. jenny Johnson April 21, 2012 at 3:11 pm #

    This is cute. great job.

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. FBA: Basic Bodice « Lazy Stitching - December 2, 2010

    […] 2 Dec Here is the nice basic Full Bust Adjustment I used on the Tunic Dress. […]

  2. 2010 « Lazy Stitching - December 29, 2010

    […] Row: Trench Coat; Lazy Shirt; Marimekko Tunic; Mermaid Dress; Jenny Muslin; Colette […]

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